Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Grey Hair Techniques

Most of my career has been dedicated to creating low maintenance haircuts and color for my primarily female and over 30 clientele. I am usually the one who brings up the idea of embracing at least some of the grey hair that is growing in. Some say I am crazy to be telling my clients that I can show them way to not have to come see me so often?

As we age it becomes more unattractive next to the skin to have a solid dark color. Add to that a color outgrowth line after a mere two weeks, not so attractive either. What woman wants to focus that much time and money on their hair to only look good half the time? So as a woman gets a more substantial amount of grey or streaks of grey it usually coincides with the need to trust Mother Nature and let the lightness come through. You will need the insight (and support) of a stylists who is on the same page. If a stylist doesn't think it is a good idea, have consultations with other stylists. They are usually complimentary and a good way to feel out a new hairdresser and see if they are inspired by your hair needs. There is usually a transitional period so it helps to trust the vision of your hair colorists and it helps to have the support of a good girl friend as well!

The most popular techniques I use are:

  • The Anne Bancroft, “The Graduate" streaks. The epitome of over 40 sexy hair I think. Allowing the grey to just "be" in the most root showing prominent places (parting, sides, and bang area), and added rich depth around and under those areas. The maintenance changes from an every two to three week appointment to a three to four month appointment.
  • The next one I call "Swedish Highlights" think Bridgette Bardot. A few subtle highlights kick the grey into the blonde category and then the grow out is amazing. Now those grey do you service by blending with the blonde and delaying the look of roots. The blonde and grey meld together, for a maintenance of anywhere from 3 months to 6 months. This past summer I had been doing my color this way with a few added lowlights of a deep brunette to give it an under depth and the appearance of roots (the rebel in me).
  • I think when it is sparse and just here and there it is not striking enough to just let it go. It creates a faded appearance. I recommend a demi-permanent color to make the grey appear as a highlight. The maintenance of this kind of color is approximately every 3 or 4 months depending on the type of haircut that is worn with it.
  • The fourth and the most natural is to use a color conditioner to keep the yellow out of the grey. We recommend the Aveda Blue Malva Color Conditioner. You control the usage at home in your own bathroom. Leave it on as a treatment for more depth or weekly to maintain a subtle striking platinum effect.

I love it when clients come back and say I can’t believe how long it has been since I have needed to come in. It is my mission to help women look great with lower maintenance (especially in this economy) so we can be free to enjoy all the wonderful opportunities in life!!

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