Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Grey Hair Techniques

Most of my career has been dedicated to creating low maintenance haircuts and color for my primarily female and over 30 clientele. I am usually the one who brings up the idea of embracing at least some of the grey hair that is growing in. Some say I am crazy to be telling my clients that I can show them way to not have to come see me so often?

As we age it becomes more unattractive next to the skin to have a solid dark color. Add to that a color outgrowth line after a mere two weeks, not so attractive either. What woman wants to focus that much time and money on their hair to only look good half the time? So as a woman gets a more substantial amount of grey or streaks of grey it usually coincides with the need to trust Mother Nature and let the lightness come through. You will need the insight (and support) of a stylists who is on the same page. If a stylist doesn't think it is a good idea, have consultations with other stylists. They are usually complimentary and a good way to feel out a new hairdresser and see if they are inspired by your hair needs. There is usually a transitional period so it helps to trust the vision of your hair colorists and it helps to have the support of a good girl friend as well!

The most popular techniques I use are:

  • The Anne Bancroft, “The Graduate" streaks. The epitome of over 40 sexy hair I think. Allowing the grey to just "be" in the most root showing prominent places (parting, sides, and bang area), and added rich depth around and under those areas. The maintenance changes from an every two to three week appointment to a three to four month appointment.
  • The next one I call "Swedish Highlights" think Bridgette Bardot. A few subtle highlights kick the grey into the blonde category and then the grow out is amazing. Now those grey do you service by blending with the blonde and delaying the look of roots. The blonde and grey meld together, for a maintenance of anywhere from 3 months to 6 months. This past summer I had been doing my color this way with a few added lowlights of a deep brunette to give it an under depth and the appearance of roots (the rebel in me).
  • I think when it is sparse and just here and there it is not striking enough to just let it go. It creates a faded appearance. I recommend a demi-permanent color to make the grey appear as a highlight. The maintenance of this kind of color is approximately every 3 or 4 months depending on the type of haircut that is worn with it.
  • The fourth and the most natural is to use a color conditioner to keep the yellow out of the grey. We recommend the Aveda Blue Malva Color Conditioner. You control the usage at home in your own bathroom. Leave it on as a treatment for more depth or weekly to maintain a subtle striking platinum effect.

I love it when clients come back and say I can’t believe how long it has been since I have needed to come in. It is my mission to help women look great with lower maintenance (especially in this economy) so we can be free to enjoy all the wonderful opportunities in life!!

Monday, July 6, 2009

Our Cheat Sheet of Ways to Save on Your Hair Expenses

Are you one of the 9.5 % of unemployed, or maybe you’ve been inspired to cut expenses down? At Parlor in New York City, we have come up with a cheat sheet of ways to save on your yearly hair expenses.

SHAMPOO…Down grade from a premium salon shampoo to a standard salon shampoo, notice I said “salon“ shampoo. You want to lighten up your budget not add build -up and cheap waxy ingredients to your hair, which is what drug store brands will bring to you. Most salon shampoos are better all around than the more commercial brands made for the mass market. Salon lines usually have a range from specialty shampoo/conditioner to a general all purpose cleaning and moisturizing set. However if you have special needs this may not be the place to save money. Instead of adding water just when you are down to the bottom add some from the beginning

HAIRCOLOR… if you are covering a sprinkling of grays use a demi permanent color solution. When permanent color needs a touch up you have a strong contrast between the hair that has been colored and the hair that needs to be touched up. With a demi-permanent choice the hair that has been colored is gradually fading off the grey over time leaving behind the look of a highlight. With this highlight next to the new grey you do not see a desperate root boldly peeking out from the scalp rather a blending of the strand.
For those covering a higher concentration of grey… A strategically placed lowlight is the way to go. Remember
Anne Bancroft in The Graduate? Grey but very sexy!!! Embracing grey at a certain age looks so much more confident than covering gray all over.

HAIRCUTS… We encourage slipping in a bang trim between haircuts to keep your haircut looking fresh while getting the most wear for your buck. At $10 to $15 you can stretch the next needed trim by 50%. So instead of getting cut every 6 weeks you could go 9 weeks between full trims and enjoy every minute of it. A full hair cut 4 to 5 times a year instead of 8 (based on a usual routine of six weeks per cut) depending on what fee your hairdresser commands this concept could save around $250 a year. The longest lasting haircut with lots of style has to be a very short, hugging the neck graduated bob. This haircut can grow almost down to the shoulders if funds get tight while carrying a look of purposeful style. It is a myth that short haircuts need to be cut more often, a short haircut that is cut with proper proportion can grow and grow. It’s the incredibly free feeling of daily low maintenance that brings my clients back yearning for a tightening of the shape. I have myself have been wearing this cut and I have been so busy that I haven’t been able to get it cut for four months but I still look the part of a professional hairdresser in the know!

Thursday, July 2, 2009


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